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Sunday, April 15, 2012

Revisiting a Pork Bomb

This is a Repost.  I'm posting it again for two reasons:  1)  This is what we had last night for a bunch of long lost family members.  2)  I drank way to much with the youngsters last night and just don't have it in me to hammer out a post.  Forgive me.  I'll be back on top soon.

So anyway, I had my niece and her girlfriend over for dinner and a few cocktails and resting in the fridge was a nice Pork Loin that I had left over from some chops I did earlier in the week.  Wondering what to do with it, Gina says "Wrap it in Bacon".  Ok, done.....now what to do.....?

Bourbon Bacon Loin Bomb

Soak a bunch of wood chips/chunks for about 2 hours, just to be ready.
2-4 lb. Pork Loin
6-7 whole strips of Bacon
Salt, Pepper, Garlic Powder to taste

Season the loin to taste, wrap from end to end with bacon slices, and season again.  Wrap in several layers of foil and slow roast next to the coals (not over them) for about 4 hours.  The loin will be cooked at this point but it is no where near done.  Unwrap the loin, drain and save the drippings, apply the wet chips, and give the loin a heavy smoke for about an hour.  It will begin to dry the outside a little but that's going to get the bacon a bit crispy before the final step.

Bourbon Glaze
I used a store bourbon glaze and it wasn't half bad...except a bit spicy for the family.  I figured it couldn't be that hard to recreate and this is what I came up with.

1/2 pint Quality bourbon
1 cup Organic cane sugar
1/4 cup pecans, finely chopped
1 medium shallot, finely diced
1 clove garlic, finely diced
3 tbsp Organic butter, hold 2 tbsp in reserve
Salt and pepper to taste

Saute the shallot and garlic in 1 tbsp butter over medium heat until the edges just start to brown then add pecans to warm them up and get some of the flavors out.  Just about 30 seconds.

Add the bourbon and sugar and reduce to about 1/3 or you develop a thin syrup.  Turn off the heat and let cool for about 5 minutes and whisk in the remaining 2 tbsp butter.  It's going to give the sauce a nice sheen and is the hammer on the flavor nail.  Puree the pecans into the sauce using either a standard blender or an immersion blender.  Strain out any large pieces with a sieve.

Just when the bacon is staring to crisp on the loin, baste with generous amounts of the glaze about 4 times over a half hour.  You may want to add some charcoal to get the heat up before you start.  Remove from heat and let it stand for about 15 minutes before you cut into it.  If you have some glaze left, you can add the drippings you held back to it, simmer for about ten minutes, and use as a finishing sauce.

This is one of those things that just happened.  I was seriously uptight over someone swiping my recipes and with a nudge from The Mrs., I put something on the table that was one of a kind, over the top, and a carnivores dream.  Of course, the therapy wasn't quite complete until we shared cocktails for family and friends before, during, and after the loin...well after the loin.

Party Well, Eat Better
Rob

Monday, April 9, 2012

Backlash and The Invincible Drunk / The 'Hooch Trip

There is nothing more to say than I am so freaking pumped up and absolutely wiped out, all at the same time. We were invited by friends to camp out and kayak the Chattahoochee River this weekend and it was a trial from the word Go.  I am burnt to a crisp, I'm spent, I can't believe that I'm actually writing...and I couldn't be happier.  I will also say that this may not be the pinnacle of my literary works.  My brain is as tired as I am so please forgive mt typo's.
This weekends Crew. Front row is Backlash and Terri.
Back row from left to right Troy, Ashley, Myself, Andrew,
Russell, and Gina

More than just a few recipes I come up with are created during the one week a year when Gina and Andrew go to New Orleans and I am left to buy as much wine as I like, cook all the things that I eat and they don't, and try new things because if they suck, no ones here to miss dinner.  This weeks tale will include one such recipe but I really have a tale to tell of good friends, new friends, good food, and one Hell of a good time.

Gina gets a hold of me while she's in NOLA and asks if I want to go kayaking and camping.  Of course the answer is "Yes" but I know she is going to roll in and were going to have to, quite literally, leave within minutes of her getting back off a 6 hour drive.  There's also the money aspect of it and things are a little tight so I put it on her:  If you think we can and you're up to it, we're there.  And so out story begins.

Friday April 8, 2012
While in the middle of her drive back, our good friend Russell and new friend Terri (you will remember her from the post "Silence of the Lamb...Literally") go to the campsite to get started setting up camp.  Terri will be our guide on this little adventure working for Timothy, the Outfitter.  After we finished the preliminaries, we all parted ways to get a few things out of the way in preparation for the weekends events.  I returned home to start pre-cooking a few things to make sure we didn't got without, food wise, over the weekend.

Now, at some point, firewood came into question and both Terri and Russell said they had plenty of firewood not far away and they would contract Timothy to help tow it in.  At this point, I will admit that a tired mind is forgetting the exact details, but I know that Russell had claimed to have tied a "Well Engineered Knot" to the wagon/wheelbarrow that was to tow the firewood in.  I also know that, upon arrival at the camp site, said wheelbarrow was no more and no less than missing.  Somewhere in the journey to the campsite, the cart containing the firewood went missing.  No clue as to where it parted ways, no idea of where to recover it, it was gone.  The last fact I have relating to this is that out of this melee, somehow, our outfitter Timothy earned the name "Backlash".

Gina ran in the door, we threw together some things while forgetting other and headed out the door.  A quick stop at SuperMegaEverthingEverDesiredForCheap Mart (I do feel dirty after the visit) and were off.  We arrived, hauled gear, and I got to cooking.

Shrimp and Grits with Smoked Speck Gravy
I've wanted to try this for a while and finally got around to it while they gang was out of town.

1-2 lbs Gulf Shrimp, peeled and deveined
8-10 slices Smoked Speck (a dry cured meat much like prosciutto)
2 cups Organic Grits (dry)
1 small Shallot, finely diced
2 cloves Garlic, finely diced
3-4 tbsp Cajun Seasoning
4 tbsp Roux (there's a Blog Post for that)
2 cups heavy cream
1-2 tsp Kitchen Bouquet of Gravy Master (caramel coloring)
2 cups water
Chopped Green Onions
Salt and Pepper to taste

Start by frying the Speck as you would bacon until its crispy, saving the remaining fat.  This step will add the same depth of flavor as when frying bacon.  When crispy, place in 2 cups of water and bring to a simmer.  This will create what is, essentially, a broth.  While that is simmering, add the shallots and garlic to the leftover fat and saute until translucent.  Try to avoid adding salt to the saute.  It does help break the aromatics down but the salt content of the Speck is quite high.  Wait until you're closer to the end to season.

Throw the shallots and garlic into the pot with the speck and puree with a stick blender or use a small food processor.  Either way, puree until smooth, bring to a mild simmer and add the roux.  When this begins to thicken, add the heavy cream until it reaches the gravy style consistency you desire and finish by adding the caramel coloring.  This adds the caramelized flavors that would come from a simple pan gravy using a deglaze or drippings.

At this point, I'm not going to insult your intelligence by telling you exactly how to cook the shrimp and grits..  Sprinkle the Cajun seasoning on the shrimp and saute in butter until done.  Cook the grits to your liking (some like them thicker, thinner, etc.). Plate a large scoop of grits, tops with gravy, then shrimp, then green onions.

Add wine, campfire smoke, and about 8 very unique personalities and you have one hell of a camp side meal.  In the interest of complete disclosure, I did the gravy at home before we left, but the rest was on site.

Saturday April 9, 2012
The day begins much as I expected it would:  Feeling as if I had been grazed by a large truck that tasted vaguely of red wine.  No matter, camp coffee, grilled ham and cheese sandwichs and leftovers for breakfast.  We had to be on the river around Noon and thats all we knew and thats all we cared about.

Joe and Inga
That morning, we had met a couple camping a few sites over.  Within minutes, Joe and Inga were fast friends and they ended up spending that Saturday river trip running with our crew.  Andrew had his fishing pole and Joe had one as well and by the time the day was coming to an end, they were ahead of the group and chatting away like they had known each other for years.  Terri showed up around 10:30am with a glass of Cabernet in hand trying to get everyone's plans coordinated and we were off shortly after that.

A day on the river makes a group hungry...and quite thirsty.  After everyone had run to town, home, the store, and all over the surrounding area for the last of the needed wine, beer, and ingredients, it was time to settle in for another huge meal and a night of laughs.  The red wine had been opened, a few beers displaced, and the camp stove came to life.

Chicken Marsala

There are a few ways to do this but here is my way.  It also should be noted that I could have added this or tweaked that but I want you to ask yourself this question:  When was the last time you went camping and had Chicken Marsala?

7 Chicken Breasts, pounded flat and cut across the grain into 2 pieces
2 cups Flour
2 tbsp Fine Sea Salt
1 tbsp fresh ground Black Pepper
1 tbsp Garlic Powder
2 cups sliced Portabella Mushrooms
1 medium shallot, finely diced
5 cloves Roasted Garlic
1 1/2 cups Marsala Wine
1 1/2 cups Heavy Cream
Olive oil and Butter for frying
Salt and Pepper to taste

In a large frying pan, add enough olive oil and butter (1 to 1) for frying.  Add salt, pepper, and garlic powder to the flour and dredge the breast pieces.  Shake to coat and leave to sit for just a moment.  Fry over medium high heat, adding oil and/or butter as needed, until golden brown and set aside.  As you end the frying process, there should be a good bit of flour in the bottom of the pan.  Just leave it there for now.

Add mushrooms, shallots, and garlic to the pan and saute until the aromatics are translucent and the mushrooms have wilted sufficiently.  When these are done, add another 2 tbsp of the dredge flour to the pan and stir in, allowing it to brown just a bit.  While the pan is still quite hot, pour in the Marsala and whisk very well to keep the lumps out.  When very thick, add heavy cream until it reaches your desired level of thickness.  Serve over pasta of your choosing, next to a fire, with 6-8 friends, after a day on the river.  I would be remiss if I didn't mention that Terri had roasted garlic and corn over the fire as well as having salad, sweet peppers, and just a general abundance of additions to the meal.  I would love to say that I took care of everything but the truth is, I did the main course and she had the rest.

When the meal was complete, Russell's grand daughter (and our very good friends and all around great person) Ashley broke out a guitar and the night was well under way.  Unfortunately, Joe and Inga decided to pass out before dinner but the rest of the crew hung as long as they could.  One by one they players fell away and took to their beds.  When everything had shaken out, there were three left sitting around the fire and knowing they had too much:  Ashley, Myself, Terri....and Terri's $80 wine glass that goes everywhere with her.  Even to the woods.

Sunday April 10, 2012
After rolling around next to Gina for what seemed like half a day, I decided that coffee and some attempt at breakfast was probably a good idea.  I say "some attempt" because in all of our running the night before, everyone had forgotten to get breakfast makings.  Of course, by saying "everyone" I mean no one else knew they were supposed to get them and I was responsible for it.....and I stone. cold forgot.

As I get coffee moving I notice Russel sitting by his fire and I decide to join him.  He informs me that Tim (Backlash) and Terri have already run to town before anyone woke to get biscuits and coffee.  Knowing that Terri had been our river guide all day, had eaten a huge meal, and then was one of the last to leave the fire I told Russel "My God, the woman is the Invincible Drunk".  And so it came to pass that Russell and I have new Super Hero's who are in need of a comic book.  The River Guides, Backlash and the Invincible Drunk.

All day Sunday was spent on the river.  Terri leading the way and our little group stopping to snack from time to time and just generally having a blast.

As I mentioned, this post is about some good food but it's really about good friends we have, good friends we met over the weekend, and good times that don't have to involve a night out or an elaborate meal.  Sometimes, the best things come to us when we don't expect them and I hope everyone that reads this has the blessing that my extended family have.  We have the ability to laugh at each other, to take everyone for who they are, and to accept anyone into our lives who is the same way.

Party Well, Eat Better
Rob

Sunday, March 25, 2012

The Silence of the Lamb...Seriously

I have to start by telling my friend and fellow Blogger, Joelle:  I'll get to the tag game shortly.  I have to mow the lawn today so I need to write quick!

We got a call from our friends that live in a secluded little neighborhood, on a lake, and back in the woods.  Terry the Midwife, the Neighbor Lady at the other end of the lake and of whom the best description would be "Wonderfully Eclectic", was going to have to move soon and wanted to put on a big spread for the nearby folks and it just so happened we were on the guest list as well.  The plan was to slaughter a young lamb and create many forms of tasty lamb creations.  I have to say that I really have no interest in slaughtering a lamb but would if it was the only way to get it to the table.  Therefore, the fact that Terry wanted to start from scratch...I mean REALLY from scratch, was no less than impressive.  However, she was unable to find dinners sacrificial component, and fell back on two legs of lamb.

We arrived on foot from Troy and Russell's house to find a beautifully set table with numerous cheeses, broken breads including chiabatta, whole wheat chiabatta, and a wonderful olive loaf that I suspect was baked by my friend Shonna at Fire & Iron Bakery.  To get to this table, one had to walk through the kitchen passing a much smaller arrangement of 8-10 bottles of wine and the wonderful smells of Lamb, Rosemary and Coriander Potatoes, and other wonderful smells.  Sitting on the back porch, overlooking the lake, laughing like hyenas at each other, and generally having a great time was only momentarily interrupted when Terry dropped the first course on the table.  Lamb Stew.   Now, having not asked her her recipe, I can only guess based on what I ate....and, of course, how I would do it.

Lamb Stew

1-2 lbs Leg of Lamb, diced large (save the bones)
1/4 cup rendered Lamb Fat
1 cup dry Red Wine
4 cups Water
1/2 cup diced Onion
3 cloves finely diced Garlic
1 lb fresh Green Beans
1 bag Frozen Peas
1 12oz. can chopped Tomatoes
Salt and Pepper to taste

In a roasting pan on the stove top, brown the seasoned lamb very well and remove from the pan. In the remaining fat, saute onions and garlic until translucent.  Depending on how I'm feeling, I might even brown the edges a little.  Deglaze the roasting pan with red wine, making sure to scrape all the tasty bits off the bottom, let simmer until reduced by half.  Add this to your soup pot, add the water and bones, and let simmer for about an hour, just to get the tasty goodness from the bones.  Remove bones and add the onions and garlic and let simmer to get the flavors combined and until the meat is tender..  Finally, add green vegetables and tomatoes and cook until the veggies are done.

Now, this is really a soup, not a stew but that can be remedied by taking some of the lamb fat and making a brown roux (there's a Blog Post for that) and whisking in some of the stock you've made until it has reached the desired level of thickness.

While looking at our surroundings, Gina and I realized that the quantity and quality of the antiques that filled the house were no less than stunning.  The bad news was that they weren't hers and she would have to leave them behind.  The beautifully carved Barristers Chair, the old woodworking tools, the shadow boxes, and so on would all be left behind for the next tenant.  A shame to be sure.

After a few more glasses of wine, many more laughs, and a few minutes of watching Andrew fishing off the end of the dock, I was summoned to the kitchen to lend my part to the next course.  As I entered the kitchen, an absolutely gorgeous Leg of Lamb was extracted from the oven in all of its roasted, brown, juicy goodness and set to rest for just a bit.

Roast Leg of Lamb

There are two trains of thought here and they only differ by one essential component:  The Leg Bone.  Leaving the bone in any roast will, of course, add flavor and richness but removing the bone one can decrease cooking time and allow for better temperature control, allowing you to select rare, medium, and so on with more ease.

Terry's Lag of Lamb had the bone in and was roasted at about 350 degrees and very simply with Essential Meat Spices: Salt, Pepper, Garlic Powder...and that's all. What Terry ended up with was a leg that was just past Medium, incredibly juicy, with a crisp outer layer of fat, and a pan full of juices...and it could not have come out more perfect.  I couldn't tell you how long she roasted it but I can tell you that the internal temp was right around 140 degrees when it came out and rode the residual heat until it hit that perfect level of Done.

Having explained Terry's method, I would like to take a minute to go over how to prepare a proper Leg of Lamb and the instructions could not be more simple:  Any way you like.  Lamb is a unique flavor that can be enjoyed on a skewer over fire, stewed, roasted, grilled, sashimi style (tartar, that is), and so on.  It is very much one of those things that, if you like it, the only way to screw it up is to over cook it.  Terry used a very simple preparation that featured the taste of the meat.  Another way would be to bone the leg, butterfly it, marinate it in olive oil, parsley, garlic, and red onions over night, and grill until medium rare to medium, which is a classic Greek preparation.  A few other additions could be granulated onion/garlic, a little ginger, Montreal Steak Seasoning, and so on.  If you can grill a steak, you can grill a butterflied Leg of Lamb.

My skills in the carving department were called upon once the Leg had rested.  I carved my little heart out, placed the slices in a baking dish with the juices from the roasting pan, and then proceeded to break open the bone to extract the beautiful marrow that was waiting there for me.  I thought if it as my reward for the carving job but it turns out Terry very much liked it as well.

To the table it went.  It was dark outside, Andrew had been run off the dock by an impromptu rain shower, and we were staring down a table with Hummus, Tzatziki Sauce, Kalamata Olives, Breads, Wine, and more food than will be eaten in the next week.  Everyone had been eating for hours and it didn't help that Gina, Andrew, and Myself had stopped at a favorite Cajun place in Atlanta only a few hours before.  The end result was my being stuffed to the gills and so very happy that I was.  Terry had cooked all day and it came after spending the morning on the river with Troy and Russell, we all had plenty of wine, and we all left on foot, in the dark.  No less than great night of food.

The good news of the evening was that the neighbors were spared the sounds of a lamb fighting the final throws of life, and if you've ever heard it, you would know why Jamie Fosters character stole the lamb and ran off.  The other good news of the evening was that Terry's efforts did not go unnoticed (I mean, I'm writing about it, right?) and even Gina and Andrew even enjoyed themselves.  No small feat as they don't enjoy lamb.

Now, in closing, I will answer the two burning questions that I know everyone is snickering about:  1)  Yes, there were Fava Beans.  2)  No, there was no Chianti.

Party Well, Eat Better,
Rob

Saturday, March 17, 2012

A Little Late

The Blog Post for this week will be delayed a bit.  I'm still in New Orleans "Researching" content.

This is what I go through for my readers!

I am currently Partying Well and mot certainly Eating Better!
Rob

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Them Bones / A High Yield Stock

I find myself in a quandary.  I've written two great posts with recipes that were so over the top good and that got a HUGE response that I am left wondering what to write about.  The past two weeks have been really slow in the kitchen and I have been revisiting some things that I haven't had in a while, so the creative thing has gone by the wayside temporarily so that I might get back to some "Old Standards".

However, I did realize that as I go over these Old Stand By's that a few of my techniques have changed or evolved as I pick up a tip here and an addition there.  I may mention some older posts but only long enough to tell where I'm going with my new flavor additions.  So, this week I am offering for your consideration............

Beef Marrow Bones
Beef Consomme

Beef Marrow Bones

Before anyone says anything, let me answer your question right up front:  Yes, I eat this stuff.  I is generally agreed among Anthropologists that what lead to the great leap in Human Evolution was the use of stone tools.  One of the things that was accomplished by using stone tools was the ability to crack open the bones of prey and extract the fatty, protein rich marrow.  Now, I will not be cracking open bones to eat raw marrow, but when roasted, a fatty, beef flavored oyster is your result.  And DAMN is it good and usually costs about $2.00.
Roasted Marrow Bones...and Dessert.

2-10 Marrow Bones, cut in half
Pinch of Sea Salt, fresh ground Pepper, Granulated Garlic
Splash of Port Wine

This is incredibly simple:  Make a cup from aluminum foil that is large enough to fit the wide base of the bone and sprinkle in a pinch of sea salt, pepper, garlic powder, and a splash of Port Wine.  Place the bone in and tightly wrap it around the base.  Sprinkle these on the top of the bone as well.  Over a hot grill or on a cookie sheet in a 400 degree oven, roast bones until the fat is bubbling and the interior of the bone appears browned and roasted.  Using a metal skewer of the long, narrow handle of a teaspoon, rout out the marrow and let fall on a plate.

To the uninitiated, this is going to look like an oyster, of a sense, and there will be an abundance of fat as well.  Save the fat for something to be determined later and enjoy the fatty, beefy richness that is the decadence of roasted bone marrow.  That's all there is to that.  Again, it's not going to look appealing and you have to love the fatty taste of beef.  If that is a flavor you dearly love, as I do, this is what you've been waiting for.

Beef Consomme

Consomme (Consume-May) is a simple stock with a complicated method of preparation.  You can use any number of ingredients that you would when making a stock., so don't think that this list of ingredients is all there is to it.  Add, subtract, improvise, etc.  Just remember the final steps are whats important.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees
10 Beef Marrow Bones, split and cut into short pieces
1 lb. Beef scraps, stew beef, or other leftover beef cuts.
1/2 a large White Onion, keeping the skin and cut into chunks
4 cloves of Garlic, skin on.
4 large Carrots cut into chunks
4 large Celery stalks cut into chunks
1/2 cup each of fresh Rosemary, Sage, Thyme
1/4 cup Port Wine
1/4 cup dry Red Wine
Water to cover
Salt, Black Pepper, White Pepper
4 Egg Whites

Add all ingredients except herbs to a roasting pan, cast iron dutch oven, or similar heavy cookware that can accommodate the amount of ingredients.  Roast in oven for about 2-3 hours or until vegetables are caramelized and the fat in the bones is browned and crisp on the edges.  In the same pan, degalze with Port and Red Wine making sure to scrape all the tasty bits off the bottom of the pan.  Add herbs, cover with water, and let simmer for about 3 hours making sure to skim the top often for floaters, fat, etc.  Let cool to room temperature then place in the fridge over night.  The next day, scrape the fat cap off the top and reheat to a light simmer.  Remove all large pieces and strain remaining bits through a cheese cloth.  You may wish to repeat this process another time or two.

Here's the fun part.  While at a light simmer, you want to thoroughly combine 2 egg whites with 4 tbsp water and slowly pour into the stock.  This is called making a "Raft"  what this is going to do is combine with the remaining floating bits and fats in the stock and force them to all float to the top.  Skim off the raft and, if needed, repeat the process.

In the parlance of Proper Culinary Terms, a broth is made from meat and a stock is made from bones.  In this case, your using both to make a very rich type of soup that is typically served clear, with no additions.  For my purposes, this is what I use for broth.  If I'm making a gravy, soup, or anything that requires beef stock this is what I use.  The reason being that the gelatin's and calogen's give this a richness that you will feel as well as taste.  This is the "Extra Mile" that will make anything using this consomme extraordinary.

Roast Beef ready for a Long, Slow Cook
As a passing note, if you follow the above recipe, add a Top Round Roast to the pot, don't worry about clarification, and let it stew for a few hours and you have a Roast Beef that is very, very rich.  Now, take the roast out and slice it, save the juices and add them back to the pot, mix in a little Roux (there's a Blog Post for That), add  the roast back in and soon you'll have all you need for Roast Beef Po' Boys.

You can do tons with a good beef broth or stock.  Adding Consomme instead of those will create a mouth feel, a richness, and an overall texture to any gravy, soup, or beef dish that will more than certainly be noticed.

Party Well, Eat Better
Rob

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Resurrection / Chicken with Artichoke Cream Sauce

I called this port "Resurrection" because I've been behind on my posts and you deserve for me to present something that you can create and knock the very socks off whomever you're trying to impress.  This is a long post, it's very detailed, and if you follow every step, your efforts will be returned to you ten fold.  This is, without a doubt, one of the most in depth posts I've ever presented, so grab a cup of coffee and enjoy.

In last weeks episode, I talked about a chicken dish that I wanted to build before I released it to the public.  I had the chance to make it last night for some friends that came in on their way to Florida.  The story gets more interesting in that about 4 hours North of my little Burg lives a man that we went to high school with and it turns out he's a mighty fine Hash Slinger in his own right and, on the return trip, my traveling friends will be stopping to sample his culinary talents as well.  Although this wasn't officially labelled a "Contest", I found out that Mr. Sean was regarding it as such.....just the same as I was.  So, it's on, of a sense.  There really isn't any way calculate a winner of this little foray but it makes it fun and forces two great cooks to put out their best.

My contribution to this little bit of fun is one of the best dishes I have ever prepared and is as follows:

Chicken with Artichoke Cream Sauce
Potato Souffle

I know I normally present three dishes or recipes but you will quickly see that the chicken is going to be in depth.  Not so much complicated, however, it will require dedication to make this dish the right way, the way it should be made.  Without wasting any time, I present.....

Chicken with Artichoke Cream Sauce

This recipe is for two persons.  Double it as needed.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
1 whole Chicken (medium to large) to be cut up
2 cups All Purpose, Unbleaced Flour as a dredge
1 Tbsp Fine Sea Salt
1 Tbsp fresh ground Pepper
2 Tbsp Garlic Powder
1 Tsp Cayenne Pepper
1/4 cup canola or other light oil plus another 1/4 cup for reserve
1 medium Shallot, finely chopped
2 cloves Garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup quartered Artichoke Hearts
1 cup Heavy Cream
1 cup Chicken stock that you're about to make (you heard me right)
Sea Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper to taste.

When you start, your bird will look like this.  I really do wish I had taken enough pics to show you exactly how to dissect this beast but the simple fact of the matter is that I had no motivation to wash my hands every 34 seconds to take a picture.  For the sake of getting this job done, lets separate this into the following steps.  You will have to know how to destroy a bird to understand the following:

  • Split the bird in half with a cleaver or heavy knife.
  • Separate the the breast quarter from the leg quarter.
  • Debone the breast, removing the keel, ribs, and wishbone but leave the wing attached to the breast.
  • Leave the Peg leg attached to the breast but cut off the remaining portion of the wing at the joint
The end result of this will be a boneless, skinless chicken breast with the Peg leg of the wing still attached, with the bone in it.  Believe it or not, the small bone that remains will add a great deal of flavor to the breast as it cooks.

Now, you will be left with the leg quarters that you can save and use for something else.  For me, I'm going to use them for Chicken and Rice.  However, you'll need to take the remaining wing portions, all the bones, skin, the back, and leftover portions of meat and throw them in a pot, cover them with water, add a teaspoon of salt and a pinch of pepper and set it to boil.  Boil and bubble, toil and trouble, add water if needed throughout he process, and after a couple of hours, you'll have a stock that is stupid rich, very flavorful, and oh so good.  When this is done, you should end up with about 1 1/2 cups of stock that is a bit more concentrated than a regular stock, but that's OK since you will be adding cream to this as well.  I would say that you could add bouillon or chicken base but one of the main points of this dish is to use the bird itself for as much as you can without letting anything go to waste.


Place the flour in a zip top bag and add the salt, pepper, garlic powder, ans cayenne pepper, and blend well.  Add the chicken breasts to the bag and coat the breasts well. Add canola oil to a large skillet, heat to a medium high, and add the breast, presentation side down.  Don't move them around too much in the first few minutes as the dredge will tend break away until the flour has locked on.  When beautifully brown on the first side, flip and repeat, frying for about 5 minutes and place in the preheated oven.

As a side note, when I say presentation side down it means that which ever side you're going to presents to your guests, that's the side that goes down first in the fry..  The skillet is going to be at its hottest and will give the most uniform sear.

Using a meat thermometer, pull the skillet from the oven when the core temp reaches just over 170 degrees and place the breasts on the server (plate, platter, etc.)..  It's not quite done yet but the residual heat will finish the cooking, quite literally, on the plate.  If all of the oil has been soaked up, which is quite likely, add the reserve oil to the pan over a medium heat.and add the shallots, garlic, and artichoke and give them a quick saute until just translucent with a few brown edges.  Add 2-3 Tbsp of the dredge flour to the oil and whisk in completely, breaking up all the lumps.  Turn the heat up to high and whisk in one cup of the stock you made before until the sauce is smooth, making sure to scrape all the tasty bits off the bottom of the pan, then add the heavy cream.  Now, roux can be a funny thing (see the post "Roux" for some technical explanations) and it may not be as thin as you like.  Use the remaining stock to get the sauce to your preferred consistency.


Now, just a moment about plating your bird, if you will indulge me.  As you can see, I was serving something that I wanted to appear as rich and hearty. I arranged the plate to center the chicken with the sauce/gravy flowing over into the middle of the plate while offsetting the Parmesan Green Beans (from last weeks post) and the Potato Souffle to frame the main part of the dish.  If I were to serve this to a group of potential restaurant investors, customers, or any other upper end presentation, I would strain the sauce, splash it on a straight white plate, stack the artichokes on the breast, and place it in the middle of the splash.  Food is 60% what you see.  Make this dish beautiful, you've worked hard on this.  Make it yours.

Potato Souffle

Some souffles can be a real bear to make as the threat of having them collapse, or "Fall", is something I remember hearing about as far back a Brady Bunch episodes in the 70's.  However, there are some that are as easy and care free as can be imagined and present standard foods in a new light.

4 cups cut and boiled potatoes, cooled to room temperature (I used Yukon Gold for color but any spud will do)
1 large Shallot, finely diced
2-3 cloves Garlic, finely diced
1/4 cup Butter
4 farm fresh Eggs, separated
1 cup Heavy Cream
1/4 cup finely chopped Speck or Prosciutto
Sea Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper to taste

Sweat shallots and garlic in the butter over a very low heat until just translucent and allow to cool.  If you have a stand mixer, it works great for the next few steps.  If not, add the potatoes, shallots, garlic, egg yolks, heavy cream, speck, and salt and pepper to a large bowl and mix well until thoroughly combined.  In a separate metal or ceramic bowl,do not use plastic, whip the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.  Plastic bowls have a nasty habit of holding onto fats no matter how well you clean them.  Any fat in egg whites will not allow them to whip into stiff peaks.

Add about 1/3 of the whites to the potatoes and slowly fold in.  When almost incorporated, add the remaining whites and fold in until almost completely mixed in.  The point of a Souffle is to have the egg whites expand and set, making a fluffy consistency of whatever you're making.  Take the time to fold properly and not to push the air out of the whipped egg whites as this is the key to success with any Souffle.

Put mixture in a well buttered Souffle dish and place in an oven that has been preheated to 375 degrees and bake for about 1 hour.  When the Souffle has risen and begins to brown slightly on top, you're done.  Carefully remove from the oven and let stand for about 10 minutes for the eggs to set completely and you're Souffle should be safe from deflation and ready to serve.  If you have a little sauce left over, maybe drizzle just a bit over the potatoes on the plate.

What topped this off was that I finally got a good loaf of bread out of my oven (it's taken more than a few tries) which just added to one of the best dishes I've ever pulled off, and I did it for friends that know how to live life, have a few cocktails, and enjoy good, rich foods with camaraderie and laughs.

As I finish writing this and proof reading it, I am well aware of what it took to get this post written.  So what do I do while happily typing away?  I make French Toast from the leftover, homemade bread.....and it was great.

Party Well, Eat Better
Rob

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Valentines Dinner Out

Just took Gina out for a great dinner at a local steakhouse and, whenever I throw caution and my cash card to the wind, I rediscover my true loves, remember flavor profiles that I had forgotten, and I always seem to discover something new.  Most of the things we encountered tonight were stand by's, things we've had before and enjoy, yet, Gina ventured off to an all natural chicken dish that was quite impressive.  I'll bring that recipe to you soon as I have to replicate it then serve it to friends to make sure it's what I thought it should be.  For now, however........

The night starts with a waiter that we've had before and that was both a good and a bad thing.  To keep this short and sweet, our service was decent, perhaps a tad slow at times (I hate it when I'm drinking Makers Mark and Coke and my glass sits empty for more than a few minutes), but nothing worth fussing over and the fact that I was having dinner with My Girl helped the time pass well.  At one point, I did ask if he was having an OK night.  "You seem kind of tense", I said kindly.  Gina suggested I leave a larger tip so he could buy a shot.  Maybe it would help.  Anyway.........

I'll sample things from both plates for this weeks recipes, and they are:

Simple Seared Salmon
Parmesan Green Beans
Port Wine (Not a recipe.  More of an explanation.)

Last week, I lit off on a tirade about.........some stuff, but I lead off the story with having completed a perfectly seared salmon fillet.  Having salmon two weeks in a row isn't really that big a deal for me.  It's actually better for me than the normal "Two Steaks for Dinner and One for Dessert" mentality that I have.  The cool thing was, the spice prep they used for the salmon was very close to my own.  When you sit down at one of the towns finest eateries to find that they have the same approach to a dish as you do, you leave with a certain sense of accomplishment.  The good news is, the preparation is very simple and can be altered to carry many different tastes.

Simple Seared Salmon

One, very nice Salmon Fillet
1 cup Organic Evaporated Cane Juice Sugar (This is a MUST.  See Below)
3 Tbsp fine grain Sea Salt
3 Tbsp fresh ground Pepper
1 Tbsp Granulated Garlic
1 Tsp Sweet Paprika

Salmon is a fatty fish, very moist, and the worst possible thing that can happen to to let it dry out.  The beauty of this rub is that the sugar and the salt draw out surface liquids in the same way a "Cure" for lox or Scottish Smoked Salmon would which, when seared, helps lock in the moisture.  Apply this rub about 15 minutes before you're ready to cook and you will notice it turn from a dry component to a wet coating.  Make sure to apply it to every fleshy surface.  If it doesn't have skin on it, it has rub on it.

At this point, either grill the salmon over nice. medium high bed of coals or pan sear it on the stove over medium high heat.  Always put the flesh side down first as this is the "Presentation Side".  When searing something, you always want to put the side that you're going to present down first.  The cooking surface is at it hottest and will create the best sear...and the best look.  Also, make sure to sear all fleshy surfaces well so there is no escape hatch for fats and moisture. If you are working with the tail portion of the fillet, there will be only one end to sear.  Body portions will have two sides to work on.

About the sugar: I usually tell people that I prefer they use the organic, cane juice sugar anyway but In this case, it's a must.  White sugar carries no flavors, it's just an acid, and is really bad for you anyway.  Cane juice sugar carries a slight caramel taste which intensifies during the sear and helps the garlic keep from becoming too bitter, as happens when it burns.

The great thing about the above mixture is its simplicity.  It creates a beautiful crust on the fish, doesn't over power it with too many flavors, and it can be very easily altered to change the flavor profile completely.  Try adding these to the above base:

Traditional Salmon Flavor
1 Tsp fresh lemon zest, very finely chopped
1 Tsp Fresh Dill (1/2 Tsp dry)

Bourbon Bee Salmon
3 Tbsp Quality Bourbon
2 Tbsp Wildflower Honey

In this case, you're adding liquids to a dry base.  You will need to mix it very well which means breaking out he Kitchenaid with the whisk attachment, food processor, hand mixer, etc.  One way or another, you'll need to blend it very well and you'll come up with something that resembles a brown sugar consistency, but not quite as sticky.

The combinations are endless and you should try whatever suits your likes.  It's nearly impossible to go wrong as long as you don't overpower or dry out the salmon.

Parmesan Green Beans

Ah, the lowly Green Bean.  Most of the poor unfortunates around my age grew up with green beans from a can which should be regarded as either an ingredient for Green Bean Casserole with those crunchy onions on top (which I do enjoy) or, when served straight from the can and microwave, as a crime against Humanity.

Fresh green beans are available at nearly every supermarket and organic, locally grown ones are (of course) the best.  A quick saute and treated right, they will be the light of your life and define most dishes you serve them with.  No matter the recipe for fresh, sauteed Green Beans, you always want to hit them hard and fast with olive oil and a high heat.  The trick is very lightly browning the beans just a bit then adding whatever flavors you like after the fact, and letting the beans absorb them as they cool.  Try this on for size.

1 lb. Fresh Green Beans
1/2 Tsp. fresh Lemon Zest divided in half
Course Sea Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper to taste
Olive Oil to saute (about 3-4 Tbsp)
1/4 cup grated Grana, Parmesan, Romano, Asiago or other nutty, hard Italian cheese.

Heat the olive oil to a low heat and add pepper and half the lemon zest to extract the oils.  Let this go for a few minutes but try not to burn the zest as it does put the flavors off a bit.  Make sure to get all of the zest out before proceeding. The pepper can stay as long as it wants.

After clearing the debris from the olive oil, bring to a medium high heat and throw the beans in, let them sit for a moment to brown in a couple of spots then toss quickly until the heat of the pan comes down a bit.  You can finish these to your desired level crispy but I let them get juts a bit wrinkled and I know they're done.

Immediately place on paper towels to drain while shaking them around a bit.  You want to remove excess oil while still keeping the beans as hot as possible.  Quickly place in a bowl and toss with the grated cheese and remaining zest until the cheese begins to melt and stick to the beans.  Hard Italian cheeses of the Grana family tend to be saltier than most, so you'll want to taste one before adding salt.  If you do have to add salt, try adding a Smoked or Black Lava salt.  The dark colors make a great contrast.  If you like a bit more lemon flavor, squeeze just a few drops over them as they cool but don't let that flavor overwhelm the rest.  You'll be left with a beautiful contrast in colors and a crisp, fresh flavor that compliments steaks, chicken, or whatever you line them up next to.

Port Wine

I wanted to take a minute and step outside my normal realm to introduce some folks to Port Wine.  By now, everyone should know that I am a self described "Good Time Party Boy" and I make no secret of my love of cocktails.  However, I have mos certainly evolved over time to know that what you drink, it's lineage, and its place in your meal are way more important than the end result of multiple toddies.  That's where Port comes in.  On this night, I found a Port that even Gina liked (she's quite fussy about her wine) and I will admit that it took me quite by surprise.

Port is simply a fortified wine that originally came from a very small region of Portugal (aptly called Port) and, when discovered, the British fell in love with it.  The problem was that it took to long to get back to England with the wine and some enterprising soul decided that adding brandy made from the wine itself would, indeed, keep it long enough to get it back to England.  Its intention is to be served as a dessert wine as a finish to a meal and I promise, this is a tradition you want to find yourself adhering to.  No matter what you've decided to enjoy for a meal, a cordial of Port will ensure that your meal came to a proper close.

I'll not take the time to explain Tawny's, Ruby's, LVB's, and so on right now.  However, I would like to encourage you to start this exploration on your own.  You will find it a very rewarding journey as I have.  As a matter of fact, I have been thinking for years about a collection of different wines, liquors, and beverages but could never decide where to begin.  The decision has been made and my Port collection begins next week.

As Always, Party Well, Eat Better,
Rob

P.S. It's nice to be back.